Oaxaca

Oaxaca runs on food and altitude—market stalls stacked with mole pastes in a dozen shades, fresh tortillas coming off the comal, mezcal poured in small clay cups at doorways and street corners. The smell of woodsmoke follows you through the centro, mixing with chocolate and roasting chiles from the market. Meals stretch long here, conversations spilling past the last course, the mountains keeping the whole city unhurried.